Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Ireland 2007 Part 3: Galway to Clifden.


After breakfast we checked out of the hotel and hit the road. We departed Galway and followed familiar territory as we headed through the seaside resort of Salthill, venturing west into the Connemara. We didn't see any of the famous white Connemara ponies but did see spectacular scenery, including rugged peat bogs and the Twelve Bens mountain range, which kept us company as we ventured deeper into the Connemara National Park. Human population is thin outside of the cities and towns in Ireland and new legislation is designed to keep development in check in these wilderness areas. Although we were traveling on the main road to Clifden there weren't many cars accompanying or passing us, making the Connemara seem more isolated and desolate than it actually is. After a few stops to take in the scenery we arrived at Clifden to cars and trucks with horse trailers lining both sides of the road. After investigating we found that the annual pony market was about to begin. We opted out of buying a pony citing it would put our luggage over the weight limit.

Parking in town, we abandoned the car and explored Clifden's sights on foot. After wandering through town center we made our way up the hill to the town's
Christ Church, located to the west, as the weather took a turn for the worse and a shower engulfed us. Making our way to the leeward end of the church not only protected us from the wind and rain but afforded us a panoramic view of the town and ominous sky. We again noted the Twelve Bens, though in the distance, were still keeping close company. As the shower slacked to a drizzle we ventured along the narrow road traversing Church Hill at the crest of town to visit the opposite St. Joseph's Catholic Church. Along the way, we found a small collapsed opening in the stone wall lining the road which revealed a small forest hidden, but for the wall's breach. Venturing inside we found the ruins of a small stone church and toppled tombstones littered throughout this small concealed wilderness. After our impromptu exploration, we returned to the road and soon arrived at the childhood church of a dear friend of Kate's. Her friend Kelly had passed unexpectedly a few months' prior. Upon entering the church, Kate lit a prayer candle in honor of Kelly's memory.

Leaving
St. Joseph's Church we were welcomed by clearing skies and a calming breeze as we made our way to lunch at a downtown sandwich shop. With our bellies full we then made our way back to the car to journey west on the Sky Road. Following the steep perimeter of a small peninsula for 11 km, the road affords a high vantage point of the coastal scenery, hence the name Sky Road. Affording views of the Clifden Castle ruins on Clifden Bay, following the rising land to the end of the peninsula and outlying islands at the Atlantic Ocean and eventually turning back east and following Streamstown Bay toward the Twelve Bens and Clifden. On our return to town we checked into our B&B on the edge of town to drop our gear and car before again visiting Clifden on foot. Once in town we ducked into E. J. Kings Pub at town center for pints. Although deceptively quiet on our arrival, the pub soon came alive as a wedding party clamored in to join us for drinks, filling the bar with raucous but well dressed revelers.

After drinks we explored the
fishing docks and seaside resort hiding in the hollow of the town's shadows where Clifden Bay is but a sliver. We followed the water's edge as the sun slowly sank ever closer to the horizon, it will be almost eleven o'clock before the sun is finally dowsed before returning at four o'clock to begin another long day. As shadows grow longer we return to town to fill the spot that the day's activities drained and after downing a hearty dinner we were off to find some music. We soon found a pub promising some music so we settled in with a couple of pints and relaxed to soccer on the tele, we were disappointed to hear acoustic covers of 80's songs but did make a new acquaintance. Returning to the streets we were met by the last light of day giving way to night and decided to return to our room to retire.



To see the rest of the pictures go
HERE.

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