Friday, November 9, 2007

Ireland 2007 Part 6: Donegal to Derry.


Greeted by the ample sunshine of an eastern facing bay window and clear skies, we started our day with a full Irish breakfast then packed up and moved on to the Glenveagh National Park. Before reaching the remote wilderness we first had to inch our way through miles of road construction and commuter traffic. Breaking free from the congestion, we diverted from the main road and found a quiet rolling road through the rugged Glenveagh Park. Finding the scenery similar to the Connemara but less craggy we made our approach to the Glenveagh Castle. The visitor center grounds were well maintained but not extensively manicured, preserving the natural mood of the surrounding wilderness. Soon we boarded a bus for the three mile drive through the grounds to the castle and botanical gardens.

Arriving at the
castle, which is located at the bottom of a wooded mountain on the shore of Lough Veagh, we make our way to the entrance. We were informed the next tour would start in 45 minutes, affording us plenty of time to tour the grounds. The extensive castle gardens are situated adjacent to the castle and offered beautifully manicured and varied botanical displays, surrounded by the craggy wilderness beyond. Finishing our tour of the gardens we made our way back to the castle and were disappointed to learn photography was not allowed in the castle. The tour was extensive and our guide well informed and upon completion of the tour we made our way back to the awating bus.

Once on the
bus Kate initiated a conversation with our driver, which soon turned to talk of ancestry. Upon telling the driver of her Malseed blood, the driver then confessed he knew a Sammy Malseed in Letterkenny and informed Kate that Sammy was a fine, tall strapping man who knew and was liked by everyone, but the driver was unable to recall an address or phone number. Returning to our car we drove east to Northern Ireland. Under a cloudy canopy we stopped on the Republic of Ireland/Northern Ireland line and were pleased to discover no checkpoint. While there we stopped at a diner/supermarket/petrol station for what turned out to be our most disappointing meal of the trip, and the $2.00 US dollar to £1 pound sterling exchange rate made the lunch even less enjoyable.Once back on the road we realized it was still early and we would arrive in Derry with plenty of daylight to explore the walled city.

Arriving in
Derry we found it to be a large, bustling city but easily navigated. We arrived at the City Hotel in no time and checked into our room, then hit the street. First making our way to the river, then following the water's edge to the Guild Hall and Guild Square just outside the city walls. We briefly summited the wall to gain a better vantage of the square and surrounding buildings, as well as the garrison of cannons lining the wall's battlements. Upon our return to the square, our touristy mumblings captured the attention of a gentleman who introduced himself as an off duty tour guide and inquired if we had any questions. Upon our affirmative reply he proceeded to proudly tell us the story of his city, including the history of the city's former populace, seiged but unbreached wall, the Bloody Sunday Massacre, and Derry's proud Irish heritage, as well as hopes for a united Ireland. After exploiting too much of his time, we thanked him and bid farewell.

Navigating the
wall as it snaked up around the old city, we happened upon the craft village filled with shops on the street level and elevated walkways providing access to residences above. After browsing the shops we returned to the wall to continue our exploration. Soon we were overlooking the densely populated and intensely polarized Bogside neighborhood, site of the infamous Bloody Sunday Massacre. From our high vantage point, we could see many of the Bogside buildings' blank sides which have been transformed into large murals, representing the troubles of the city's polarized, bloody past. Some murals depict the bloodshed and loss, while others show a hope for peace and unity. After our tour of the wall we make our way down into Bogside and pay a visit to the Bogside Inn to relax and have a pint in the history filled pub. Inside we found pictures adorned the walls depicting Bloody Sunday and the Troubles. As we moved into the neighborhood we found a cheerful, bustling town full of Irish flags flying at half-staff, the flagpoles themselves, as well as the street's curbs, painted the Republic Flag's orange, white and green. The colors representing; orange for Northern Ireland, green the South's Republic and white in the middle for the hope they will one day come together. Continuing through Bogside, we made our way to the Free Derry wall, "H" block memorial, as well as the Bloody Sunday Memorial, all amid the many murals.

We returned to the
walled city, then headed to the business district in search of dinner. Dinning on comfort food at the bustling American Cafe, we found an an adequate meal that bested our earlier lunch, if just by a little. Feeling rejuvenated and finding the sun revisiting, we journeyed through the residential neighborhoods along the river and found a very quiet and serene stroll, as well as the city's "Reconciliation- Hands Across the Divide" statue. As our shadows grew longer we made our way back through the walled city and ducked into a pub for one last pint before returning to our hotel for a quiet slumber.



To see the rest of the pictures go
HERE.

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