Again waking from a restful night's sleep, we soon finished breakfast and began our leisurely walk around Belfast. Starting from our hotel's door we made our way east past the Central Rail Terminal to stroll down the River Lagan. As we followed the river we caught sight of the mighty cranes, Sampson and Goliath, which were used to built the Titanic. We soon passed the Albert Bridge and as we approached the Queen Bridge we found ourselves in Thanksgiving Square under the Ring of Thanksgiving statue, then came upon Belfast's famous The Big Fish statue. We broke from quayside and ventured into the city, passing the Custom House we made our way toward the Albert Memorial Clock Tower. Under the tower we found a large fountain with synchronized water patterns and paused to watch the water's performance.
Making our way deeper into the city, we spotted a spire pointing to the sky and went to investigate. The spire turned out to be a renovation to the Belfast Cathedral's steeple and was still under construction. As we were about to make our way into the cathedral, we took notice of a group of people milling about the park across the street, each person in the group was conspicuously carrying a white helium balloon. When we appraoched the group and inquired, we were told they were parishioners of the cathedral and were performing an awareness rally for the monstrosities being perpetrated in Darfur, Africa. We sat in the park and watched as they let their balloons free in unison. Carried by the breeze, we watched the balloons as they sailed together over the cathedral. Upon resuming our tour of Belfast Cathedral we were told by our guide that, when finished, the spire would be supported and surrounded by a skylight over the churches' Sanctuary. He also invited us to see the largest cross on a European church, which is located on the north wing of the cathedral. We continued our journey deeper into the city's business district before finding the location of the city's Masonic Lodge, where I was to attend a meeting that evening.
As we made our way into the retail area, we asked a couple of police officers where the Odyssey (and exhibition and retail area) was located. One officer replied, "Hop in and we'll give you a ride there"! Not really all that interested in going but not wanting to turn down what would probably be one of our fondest memories of the trip, we jump in the back seat of the police mini-van. The officers gave us an impromptu tour and told us the history of the city as well as the current redevelopment plans, and indicated a desire for Northern Ireland to unite with the Republic. Once we arrived at the Odyssey we found ourselves on the opposite shore of the River Lagan from where we had been earlier that morning. After a brief look around, we headed back toward our hotel. Feeling an emptiness in our bellies, we decided on the Crown Saloon for lunch and arrived in time to claim our own vault, or private booth, for our luncheon seating. The vaults are as lavishly decorated as the rest of the pub with meticulous carvings and metalwork throughout and, because isolated by walls and a door, feature bell buttons to summon the waitstaff when needed. We both ordered hearty pub grub and found lunch to be well prepared and satisfying. We returned to our room at the hotel to make arrangements for a guided tour of the Belfast neighborhoods and were told the driver would arrive shortly. We then made our way to the lobby to meet our tour guide.
The Belfast Black Cab arrived and our driver introduced himself as we settled into the back seat. He explained that we would ride, stop and occasionally get out on our tour and he would make it as long as we desired, ask any questions and he would do his best to answer. He further clarified that the city's black cabs fall into two categories, the cabs with yellow plates are not allowed to cross neighborhood lines, only white tags may pass from one side of the Peace Wall to the other. This is because during the Troubles, hit men would hire a cab to carry them to the other neighborhood to carry out their executions before slipping back unnoticed. The white-license plated cabs face higher registration fees and a more rigorous background investigation then their yellow plated counterparts. We began our tour of the politically and religiously differing neighborhoods. First passing the Divis Tower, site of British espionage, where British Secret Service Agents took over the top two floors to spy on the waring neighborhoods and conduct raids. We soon were in the Republic's (Catholic) Falls Road neighborhood and were shown a long wall of political murals, mostly anti-Bush and other world leaders, as well as raising awareness on topics such as racism, imperialism and of course, the Irish Troubles. Making our way past the Sinn Féin headquarters we soon were in the neighborhood sharing it's back yards with the Peace Wall, the huge concrete and steel barrier separating the Republic's Falls Road (Catholic) area from the Unionist Shankill (Protestant) neighborhood. While in Falls Road we are shown a few of the many memorials to the fallen victims of the troubles. These memorials dot the neighborhoods and we stop to take a solemn stroll. Returning to our cab, we then are driven past several of the old checkpoints, which are now battered, burned and abandoned. We then shown a heavily graffitied wall of more contemporary murals before making our way to the Shankill area. We take notice of the ever present Divis tower looming on the horizon as we ride.
Arriving at the Unionist, Protestant, Shankill neighborhood we were first taken through the more densely populated area and shown the checkpoints, steel bars and spin-gates protecting the pubs and shops. Driving on toward the square, our guide explains the huge piles of wood and debris that fill the entire square are for the annual bonfire rally scheduled to take place the following week. All around the square are Unionist murals and in the background we again detected the ominous Divas Tower's presence. Our driver explained how the government pays the neighborhood £6000 pounds sterling to re-paint the political murals with more upbeat, non partisan images such as historical figures and events but still find numerous divisive murals that have come to represent this area. Our driver is one of many Northern Irish we met on our trip that shared their desire for Ireland's Uniting under the Republic and belief that it would occur in the not too distant future. We then arrived at another neighborhood square and found numerous murals dotting the perimeter of the mostly empty park. After studying the murals we moved to a desolate and dilapidated neighborhood and were told the Troubles claimed many people here as well as the neighborhood. Our guide then showed us a house that was ravaged during the Christmas season, the empty tenement was still decorated for the holidays and lit up in full Christmas splendor each night as a sign of defiance.
Returning to our hotel, our guide pointed out a nearby chippy and recommended them as having the best in the city. We then toured City Hall and were impressed by the building's lavish decor and furnishings. Once finished with our tour, a light shower fell on us as we dashed to the chippy. Settling in we had a cholesterol laden fish and chip dinner in the small, local diner. On our return I called the Lodge to confirm the Masonic meeting I was to attend that evening and was told a driver would soon pick me up. Quickly I readied and was met by two Brothers who chauffeured me to the Lodge to attended a most spirited Meeting. A hearty meal, washed down with pints, followed the meeting as a band, accompamied by the occasional Lodge Brother, entertained those in attendance. After too many Guinnesses, I thanked my hosts for their gracious hospitality and made my way back to the hotel to rejoin Kate for a much needed rest.
To see the rest of the pictures go HERE.
Making our way deeper into the city, we spotted a spire pointing to the sky and went to investigate. The spire turned out to be a renovation to the Belfast Cathedral's steeple and was still under construction. As we were about to make our way into the cathedral, we took notice of a group of people milling about the park across the street, each person in the group was conspicuously carrying a white helium balloon. When we appraoched the group and inquired, we were told they were parishioners of the cathedral and were performing an awareness rally for the monstrosities being perpetrated in Darfur, Africa. We sat in the park and watched as they let their balloons free in unison. Carried by the breeze, we watched the balloons as they sailed together over the cathedral. Upon resuming our tour of Belfast Cathedral we were told by our guide that, when finished, the spire would be supported and surrounded by a skylight over the churches' Sanctuary. He also invited us to see the largest cross on a European church, which is located on the north wing of the cathedral. We continued our journey deeper into the city's business district before finding the location of the city's Masonic Lodge, where I was to attend a meeting that evening.
As we made our way into the retail area, we asked a couple of police officers where the Odyssey (and exhibition and retail area) was located. One officer replied, "Hop in and we'll give you a ride there"! Not really all that interested in going but not wanting to turn down what would probably be one of our fondest memories of the trip, we jump in the back seat of the police mini-van. The officers gave us an impromptu tour and told us the history of the city as well as the current redevelopment plans, and indicated a desire for Northern Ireland to unite with the Republic. Once we arrived at the Odyssey we found ourselves on the opposite shore of the River Lagan from where we had been earlier that morning. After a brief look around, we headed back toward our hotel. Feeling an emptiness in our bellies, we decided on the Crown Saloon for lunch and arrived in time to claim our own vault, or private booth, for our luncheon seating. The vaults are as lavishly decorated as the rest of the pub with meticulous carvings and metalwork throughout and, because isolated by walls and a door, feature bell buttons to summon the waitstaff when needed. We both ordered hearty pub grub and found lunch to be well prepared and satisfying. We returned to our room at the hotel to make arrangements for a guided tour of the Belfast neighborhoods and were told the driver would arrive shortly. We then made our way to the lobby to meet our tour guide.
The Belfast Black Cab arrived and our driver introduced himself as we settled into the back seat. He explained that we would ride, stop and occasionally get out on our tour and he would make it as long as we desired, ask any questions and he would do his best to answer. He further clarified that the city's black cabs fall into two categories, the cabs with yellow plates are not allowed to cross neighborhood lines, only white tags may pass from one side of the Peace Wall to the other. This is because during the Troubles, hit men would hire a cab to carry them to the other neighborhood to carry out their executions before slipping back unnoticed. The white-license plated cabs face higher registration fees and a more rigorous background investigation then their yellow plated counterparts. We began our tour of the politically and religiously differing neighborhoods. First passing the Divis Tower, site of British espionage, where British Secret Service Agents took over the top two floors to spy on the waring neighborhoods and conduct raids. We soon were in the Republic's (Catholic) Falls Road neighborhood and were shown a long wall of political murals, mostly anti-Bush and other world leaders, as well as raising awareness on topics such as racism, imperialism and of course, the Irish Troubles. Making our way past the Sinn Féin headquarters we soon were in the neighborhood sharing it's back yards with the Peace Wall, the huge concrete and steel barrier separating the Republic's Falls Road (Catholic) area from the Unionist Shankill (Protestant) neighborhood. While in Falls Road we are shown a few of the many memorials to the fallen victims of the troubles. These memorials dot the neighborhoods and we stop to take a solemn stroll. Returning to our cab, we then are driven past several of the old checkpoints, which are now battered, burned and abandoned. We then shown a heavily graffitied wall of more contemporary murals before making our way to the Shankill area. We take notice of the ever present Divis tower looming on the horizon as we ride.
Arriving at the Unionist, Protestant, Shankill neighborhood we were first taken through the more densely populated area and shown the checkpoints, steel bars and spin-gates protecting the pubs and shops. Driving on toward the square, our guide explains the huge piles of wood and debris that fill the entire square are for the annual bonfire rally scheduled to take place the following week. All around the square are Unionist murals and in the background we again detected the ominous Divas Tower's presence. Our driver explained how the government pays the neighborhood £6000 pounds sterling to re-paint the political murals with more upbeat, non partisan images such as historical figures and events but still find numerous divisive murals that have come to represent this area. Our driver is one of many Northern Irish we met on our trip that shared their desire for Ireland's Uniting under the Republic and belief that it would occur in the not too distant future. We then arrived at another neighborhood square and found numerous murals dotting the perimeter of the mostly empty park. After studying the murals we moved to a desolate and dilapidated neighborhood and were told the Troubles claimed many people here as well as the neighborhood. Our guide then showed us a house that was ravaged during the Christmas season, the empty tenement was still decorated for the holidays and lit up in full Christmas splendor each night as a sign of defiance.
Returning to our hotel, our guide pointed out a nearby chippy and recommended them as having the best in the city. We then toured City Hall and were impressed by the building's lavish decor and furnishings. Once finished with our tour, a light shower fell on us as we dashed to the chippy. Settling in we had a cholesterol laden fish and chip dinner in the small, local diner. On our return I called the Lodge to confirm the Masonic meeting I was to attend that evening and was told a driver would soon pick me up. Quickly I readied and was met by two Brothers who chauffeured me to the Lodge to attended a most spirited Meeting. A hearty meal, washed down with pints, followed the meeting as a band, accompamied by the occasional Lodge Brother, entertained those in attendance. After too many Guinnesses, I thanked my hosts for their gracious hospitality and made my way back to the hotel to rejoin Kate for a much needed rest.
To see the rest of the pictures go HERE.
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