Our trip started on the west coast of Ireland in Shannon, County Clare after our flight to and from Boston. Driving in a small rented car we cautiously made our way (on the wrong side of the road for an American) to the Cliffs of Mohr. Unfortunately heavy fog had hold of the coast and visibility was reduced to fifty feet, at best. Having been to the cliffs on an previous trip we moved on without too much regret. After passing through Lisdoonvarna, we reached the Burren to find the ever present fog was starting to thin, however the remaining thick haze made the stony, desolate landscape seem more ominous. Edmund Ludlow described the rocky Burren as "A country where there is not enough water to drown a man, wood enough to hang him, nor earth enough to bury him". Being all alone as we reached the Poulnabrone Dolmen passage tomb made the rocky scene all the more mysterious, however, the colorful spring blooms helped brighten the somber mood. As the brooding fog lifted, we reached Ballyvaughan for our first glance at Irish coastline on the southern shore of Galway Bay. Continuing closer to Galway, we came upon Dunguaire Castle guarding the tiny fishing village of Connaught. After parking, we happened upon a small sheep herd held at bay by a stone fence, but the truly impressive fence was the meticulously manicured 15' high hedge across the street. Nearing the castle on the rocky shore of Kinvarra Bay, we found a dense, damp carpet of seaweed traced the water's path from the tides' high at shore to it's current low mark. After our brief tour we moved on for our second visit, in as many years, to Galway City.
The strategic port of Galway, meaning "town of foreigners", was originally settled by the Spanish, who constructed a wall surrounding the town to keep the locals at bay. Remnants of the wall remain and a part may be seen at the Spanish Arch. Dark and foreboding, we arrived in Galway under a darkening sky of clouds and located the House Hotel, our home for the next couple of nights. Located off the pedestrian Quay street, we found the hotel an ideal jumping off point to explore the city and surrounding area. After settling into the hotel, we hit the streets and grabbed a quick lunch at a chippy, followed by a tour up Quay street to Eyre Square. On our previous visit the square was being renovated and was made up of dirt, barricades and heavy equipment, this time, however, found the park filled with grass, pavement, trees, statues, schoolchildren and a light rain, which seemed to bother no one. Taking note that the park's central fountain had been transformed into a bubble bath, we then made our way through town to the River Corrib where it passes the Galway Cathedral. Following the river's path we made our way as it meandered through the backs of neighborhoods, past the abandoned mills and canal locks, to it's end at Galway Bay. At Galway Bay we spied an Asian restaurant, the Lemongrass, right outside the Spanish Arch and found a nice light dinner awaited us there.
Our journey then took us to the opposite shore of the Corrib where a number of lively neighborhood pubs awaited. After shaking the rain showers that gripped us outside, a pint in a crowded pub seemed just the thing to help us warm up and relax. Following drinks we again braved the less than hospitable weather outside and moved into the adjacent village of Claddagh, where the claddagh jewelry originated. The claddagh is a pair of hands (signifying friendship) holding a heart (signifying love), with a crown (signifying loyalty) over the heart. As darkness fell, we made our way back to the River Corrib's terminus and watched swans gather at the quayside before making our way back to the hotel for a well deserved rest. Along the way we met our first group of stag partiers making their way down the street, they were smartly dressed and very photogenic. Growing tired and no drier, we returned to our hotel. Arriving at our room we found the overnight flight and days' travel to and through Galway made sleep's seduction too difficult to resist.
To see the rest of the pictures go HERE.
