After rising and showering for the new day, Kate and I find we're first to breakfast. We settle in for pastry as the rest of the group trickle into the cafe. Following breakfast, we relax at the hotel as we wait for our guide to meet us. Soon enough we're on the streets of Essaouira and we move toward to the protected harbor. Our guide explains how in the early 16th century, the Portuguese King Manuel I ordered the fortress built and four years later fell to the local resistance. In the 18th century, Mohammed III using captured engineers, rebuilt the city's fortresses to increase trade with Europe. We also learn the city's recent history, as a collection plate for hippies in the '60's, including Jimi Hendrix and to this day has a large population of Anglo free spirits mingling with the Moroccans. As we pass the beach and move closer to the fishing fleet resting in the harbor. Fishermen tend to their nets and prepare to return to sea among the ancient battlements surrounding the scene.
We continue, following the shoreline and as we pass through another set of gates we have a breathtaking view of Essaouira's coastline hugging Medina. With it's gray medieval looking wall containing Essaouira's snow white buildings, the sea crashing st it's foot with seagulls dotting the view we soon dive into the narrow, bustling streets. We not only pass the market stalls but soon tour the Jewish neighborhoods, visit opulent riads, and the spice market. We also visit craftsmen using the local thuya wood to carve small statues as well as craft all sorts of ornate cabinetry, from small boxes to large table and chests.
Kate and I depart the tour prematurely and explore on our own. We visit the plaza and find a pizzeria and decide this would be a good lunch stop. After so many lunches of couse-couse, tagine and brochettes we find the pizza a nice change and visit the next door ice creamery for dessert. As we finish our lunch street performers wander by and serenade us with a song accompanied on the oud. Following lunch we revisit the souks and shop for souvenirs. Kate tries to talk me into buying a jalaba, the local dress that looks similar to a 'Star Wars' Jawa uniform but I can't justify the purchase. We wind up spending the entire day on the streets of Essaouira and are disappointed to find the sun setting and shop keepers closing their stalls. We make our way to the western most fortress wall overlooking the Atlantic Ocean to watch the sunset with countless other tourists and locals, finding most of our group at the same time.
Following the light show, we return to our hotel and freshen up for the evening. The previous day's wash is dry on the roof, we change into clean clothes and meet the rest of the group in the lobby. Several of us decide beer would be great but know we are unable to purchase beer within the old city so, we decide to hike across the Medina to a beer and wine store outside the city's walls, buy beer and return to the hotel. The walk takes us through the crowded streets of a very traditional part of the city, we pass many locals in traditional Muslim wear. Returning to the hotel, Mohamed joins us with a hookah and tobacco and a man from the hookah room brings a hot charcoal. It's entertaining watching everyone puffing on the huge hookah and Kate, who stopped smoking at the start of the trip, is very enthusiastic to try the hookah. After a few beers and puffs from the water pipe, we organize ourselves for Essaouira's streets.
Back outside, we eventually return to the plaza and decide on a traditional Moroccan restaurant for dinner. We enter a busy restaurant and choose a long table and once again enjoy a Moroccan dinner, Pete on the other hand decides on a more French cuisine and dines on horse, which he shares with whomever is interested. After our late dinner we wander the streets as a light rain starts to fall, prodding us to return to the hotel. As we arrive we decide to call it a night and soon fall into a restful sleep.
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